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Sport coats

For every room that isn't a courtroom.

Client dinners, board retreats, the club on Friday, dinner on the water. The odd jacket is the most-worn tailored garment in a Florida wardrobe — and the one most worth having cut properly, because it's worn open, soft and close to the body.

The brief

Softer than a suit, sharper than a shirt.

A sport coat is not a suit jacket without its trousers — the cloth has texture, the shoulder is softer, the make is lighter. Worn without a tie, which is how Florida wears it, all the work moves to the collar and the drape.

Coats here are cut with a soft, lightly padded shoulder, a full hand-set canvas, and — for the hot months — half linings or buggy linings that let the cloth breathe. Patch pockets, swelled edges and horn buttons as the cloth suggests.

The Florida staples: navy hopsack first, always. Then air-force blue fresco, cream linen, a brown glen check for the cooler months. Each pairs with trousers you already own.

The Measure of Distinction

Start with the navy hopsack.

Sport coats from $2,400, full canvas, quoted before cloth is cut. The books come to you.

Where

Tampa, St. Petersburg, Clearwater, Sarasota, Bradenton. Elsewhere in Florida by arrangement.

When

Tuesday through Saturday, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.. Early mornings and evenings usually available with a week’s notice.

Cost

Two-piece suits from $3,200. Quoted in full before anything is cut.

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